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  • #16
    Originally posted by brain medicine View Post
    Anything lower than .042 mil gap and you start seeing problems with runoff. Another issue is keeping the mash basket hot while you drain. I do mash out near 170 with the recirc still going slowly while i drain. Nice long hose on the recirc arm. I raise tun up about 4-6 inches at a time, basically one good bump on the winch. Then let it rest a bit while the water level in the kettle comes back up towards the level in the tun. Repaeat until you are either ready to add sparge water or the tun finally is above the kettle water level. I find that the recirc and keeping contact bewteen the tun and the wort in the kettle keeps those temps up and makes run off faster. I learned the hard way that the tun hanging high by itself loses heat rapidly due to the solid sides which radiate heat. Stuck sparge with a ton of cold sticky oats was a nightmare. This method takes about 40-60 minutes with 25-30 gal of sparge added to water level. But if i recall the hang and drain alone took like 30 minutes so not much more time overall.

    Our temp range from under tun to top of tun is like 8 degrees. So we add 4 to whatever our intended mash temp is as to make an average. Seems to be ok. Adding a lid to trap heat is a great idea, something we keep meaning to get around to doing.

    As for sticky stuff and adjuncts, i got some samples of mash/lauter aids and we just did a 33% wheat berliner that ran with no issues whatsoever. Glucan rest was worthless. Enzymes are your friend. Looking forward to a 50% rye. Unfortunately they seem to only come in large sizes. Might have to find a bigger brewery that uses them and ask to share a bit. We used like 20 ml per batch. Smallest product size is a kilo. And enzymes have limited shelf life.
    I didn't ever consider the effects of the basket radiating heat if removed from the kettle too far. I always bumped it up in steps, but gave no concern to recording how much or how quickly. My mill gap is good, and I have not suffered any stuck mashes, but I haven't been as attentive to the basket as maybe I should have.

    What kind of hose are you attaching to the recirc arm? More specifically, how long? I'm imagining just a silicon 1/2" stretched over the arm. Do you find it more efficient?

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    • #17
      1/2 silicone, probly 8' long or so. Recirc while draining does seem a bit counterintuitive but i throttle it down a ton and the drainage rate is alot higher so it really just helps keep things hot inside the tun until the wort gets low enough to start sparge. Im not sure its more efficient in terms of sugar extraction but i think it helps keep the grain hot and the drainage going more quickly than when we used to lifr it high from the get go.

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      • #18
        Braumeister or CBS ?

        Originally posted by Luke7e View Post
        I just received my 100 gallon system last month and had 100 amp...big problem...I had to get a 200 amp serviced dropped which was my bad. The guys at CBS have been awesome though. The first stand that I got was extremely warped from the ss pulling and I had a new one in just a couple of weeks. I will start brewing on the system in a couple of weeks when the service is Completed and will let you know more...I had been using a Braumeister system.



        Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
        Hi Luke,
        I am looking to get a Braumeister 200l or a CBS system,
        do you have any recommendations on which style you prefer?
        Thanks
        John

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        • #19
          Brewing with a Colorado Brew Systems Nano Dual

          We have the nano dual 200. When brewing, how do you calculate your mash water volume? Even with the equipment profile from CBS loaded in beersmith it lists mash water and sparge water separately. Do I need to add those two amounts together for mash water volume if i'm not sparging and just letting the basket drain? Full disclosure, i'm a newbie to beersmith so maybe i'm not doing something right.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by HeavyHands View Post
            We have the nano dual 200. When brewing, how do you calculate your mash water volume? Even with the equipment profile from CBS loaded in beersmith it lists mash water and sparge water separately. Do I need to add those two amounts together for mash water volume if i'm not sparging and just letting the basket drain? Full disclosure, i'm a newbie to beersmith so maybe i'm not doing something right.
            First question is, why aren't you sparging?

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Weehe View Post
              First question is, why aren't you sparging?
              With the CBS Nano dual, you do not have to do a traditional sparge. It's almost like a giant BIAB.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by HeavyHands View Post
                We have the nano dual 200. When brewing, how do you calculate your mash water volume? Even with the equipment profile from CBS loaded in beersmith it lists mash water and sparge water separately. Do I need to add those two amounts together for mash water volume if i'm not sparging and just letting the basket drain? Full disclosure, i'm a newbie to beersmith so maybe i'm not doing something right.
                I have the similar system, and I found that only way to get correct numbers for sparging the basket in Beersmith is to count basket as a separate mash vessel. So, if your basket's full useful volume is 100L, you put it in "mash tun volume". Calculate how much water you have around the basket (f.e., 250-100=150L), and put it in "Top up water for Kettle". Mash profile should not be considered BIAB, but use "batch sparge using batches that fill 100%" and "drain mash tun before sparging".

                That's how I get correct mash and sparge volumes every time for now.

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