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Looking for reviews on DYE http://www.dayuwz.com Fermentors and BBTs

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  • Looking for reviews on DYE http://www.dayuwz.com Fermentors and BBTs

    Hey there,

    We are a 10bbl brew pub opening in Calgary Alberta Canada. I am currently looking at sourcing our tankage and have been negotiating with DYE systems, aka DAEYOO tech based in wenzhou china, has anyone here bought from them in the past? any thoughts or recommendations? Currently they have been very responsive and made many of the modifications i'd like in their drawings, Im just mainly concerned with the quality of welds, maximum weigh capacity and jacket cooling efficiency.


    Thanks

    Ryan
    citizen brewing company
    Ryan Hampton
    403-200-1814
    Tool Shed Brewing Company
    Calgary AB

  • #2
    Second attempt as this damned website logs you off half way through a resonse.

    I helped commission some of their kit a couple of years ago. Hmm, where do we start? Grist hydrator – fairly useless. Mash mixer, or was it lauter tun rakes? – the system was not fit for either purpose. Plates distorted and rather difficult to lift out for cleaning underneath. Wort kettle – heating elements in an oil bath – of vegetable oil – stank like a fish & chip shop without the benefits. Fixed pipework – poor design, completely unhygienic and inflexible without stripping down much of and using blank caps (purchased separately). Poor quality pressure gauges – not hygienic design. Glycol system leaked, not sure where, but thought to be into FVs, but may simply have been hidden by all the sweating pipework. The tanks arrived filthy and greasy – cleaning & degreasing took a few days rather than just a day. CIP set – OK - ish, but again needed modification, along with replacement of most spray heads as they were too big. Electrical panels – life is obviously cheap in China – they don’t or didn’t then know what IP65 meant, or perhaps didn’t care. Valve types wrong for certain uses (but this is common for many suppliers). Heat exchanger inefficient for physical size. FV cooling was good – almost too good as the first few brews were overcooled at times.
    I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again. There are too many welding companies who copy a design from somewhere and repeat it, because they are welders, and have not had the direction of experienced brewers and brewing engineers, perpetuating much of the crap design of brewing kit. Commercial brewing is about much more than simply scaled up homebrew kit, with requirements for cost effectiveness, effluent, efficiency and safety that are not a major consideration of homebrewing.
    If you are asking about them, and their kit, unless you have a wealth of experience in brewing and plant design, construction and installation then I suggest you seriously consider the offers made by companies who have been around for a few years (e.g. the offer by specific mechanical), to validate the design and build quality. Yes it costs a few dollars more, but you also have a local agent to scream at if things go wrong, instead of someone a few thousand miles away.
    dick

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by dick murton View Post
      Second attempt as this damned website logs you off half way through a resonse.

      I helped commission some of their kit a couple of years ago. Hmm, where do we start? Grist hydrator – fairly useless. Mash mixer, or was it lauter tun rakes? – the system was not fit for either purpose. Plates distorted and rather difficult to lift out for cleaning underneath. Wort kettle – heating elements in an oil bath – of vegetable oil – stank like a fish & chip shop without the benefits. Fixed pipework – poor design, completely unhygienic and inflexible without stripping down much of and using blank caps (purchased separately). Poor quality pressure gauges – not hygienic design. Glycol system leaked, not sure where, but thought to be into FVs, but may simply have been hidden by all the sweating pipework. The tanks arrived filthy and greasy – cleaning & degreasing took a few days rather than just a day. CIP set – OK - ish, but again needed modification, along with replacement of most spray heads as they were too big. Electrical panels – life is obviously cheap in China – they don’t or didn’t then know what IP65 meant, or perhaps didn’t care. Valve types wrong for certain uses (but this is common for many suppliers). Heat exchanger inefficient for physical size. FV cooling was good – almost too good as the first few brews were overcooled at times.
      I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again. There are too many welding companies who copy a design from somewhere and repeat it, because they are welders, and have not had the direction of experienced brewers and brewing engineers, perpetuating much of the crap design of brewing kit. Commercial brewing is about much more than simply scaled up homebrew kit, with requirements for cost effectiveness, effluent, efficiency and safety that are not a major consideration of homebrewing.
      If you are asking about them, and their kit, unless you have a wealth of experience in brewing and plant design, construction and installation then I suggest you seriously consider the offers made by companies who have been around for a few years (e.g. the offer by specific mechanical), to validate the design and build quality. Yes it costs a few dollars more, but you also have a local agent to scream at if things go wrong, instead of someone a few thousand miles away.
      Thread from the dead.

      I've been talking to them about a 10Bbl electric brewhouse for a brewpub expansion. I see that the HLT, MT and kettle are all heated with the elements in oil bath, and jacketed. Aside from the wrong oil, I assume this could be spec'd to the correct oil, not that I know what that would be, how did the kettle perform?
      Was the issue with the rakes in the MT a design issue or faulty equipment?

      Thanks for the insight, Cheers.

      Comment


      • #4
        It worked pretty well, BUT, the biggest problem apart from the chip shop smell was the thermal capacity of the oil, which mean that the kettle continued to boil (over) for about a minute after the current was switched off. Because of the design, the boil wasn't particularly rolling, as the heating area was over the whole of the bottom of the kettle, and partway up the sides. I would much rather have direct firing or smaller offset steam jackets for better boil internal flows, and far more immediate response for boil control. Given a choice, steam, which would allow better control that simple on / off of a small number of electrical heating elements, especially if you do different volume brews - but of course, they are more expensive to purchase and maintain than electric heating element systems.
        dick

        Comment


        • #5
          I, and I know I am not alone (see other threads discussing rakes in mash tuns), am used to not having rakes in a mash tun, as if the malt is milled properly, and mashed in properly, there is no need for mixing. A mash tun mash floats clear of the bottom due to entrained air. The rakes do not mix at all well - they are not designed to. They are designed to cut the mash and make more porous. Because of a coarse grind, air is trapped in the husk particles (predominantly and the bed floats, and has lots of open passageways for the wort & sparge to run through, so no raking is required. If you want to follow traditional styled decoction or rising temperature infusion mashes, then you need a mash mixer with correctly designed mixing paddles, to ensure completely consistent temperatures in the mash, and no burning on the heating elements. Because you have knocked out all the air by using a mash mixer, then you need a lauter tun fitted with the right design and number of rakes, and control systems to be able to extract the wort efficiently.

          So - if you are only going to do single temperature mashes - go for a mash tun with a coarse grind, efficient mashing in device, and not rakes are required.

          If you want to do rising temperature infusion mashes, or decoction style mashes, you need for accurate temperature control results a separate mash mixer with its own dedicated heating system and properly designed mash mixing paddles, and a separate lauter tun with properly designed rakes to cut the mash and maintain the porosity during wort runoff and sparging (or use a mash filter!!)
          dick

          Comment

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