Wondering if someone can give me a quick primer on how to use a dissolved oxygen meter. I’m head brewer at a Brewpub and my business partner purchased a DO meter because our score sheets from GABF said our beers were oxidized. So my business partner, who isn’t even a novice home brewer has been attempting to cure our oxidation issues.
So what I need to know is what are desired numbers for DO in finished beer. He was told 15 ppm is what you want, then beer can be transferred to brite tanks. I feel like our oxidation issues are from a combination of things like our grain being stored in a machine shed that is not temp controlled. Also, in the summer I have a hard time cooling beer with our chill plates due to warm ground water temps.
So if anyone could enlighten me on some things to do to minimize oxidation it would be greatly appreciated. We brew on a 2.5bbl Psycho Brew system. We brew double batches into 5bbl fermenters. I use Fermentis dry yeast and oxygenate our wort with a GW Kent in line oxygen stone.
My business partner has also, to my dismay been purging yeast out of the bottom of our fermenters. I brewed a robust Porter with an OG of 16 Plato. He started dumping yeast after a week with a gravity of 6 Plato. He then got a DO reading of 8 and transferred it to a brite tank. The beer tastes like shit!
I typically wait 10 to 12 days and check a gravity reading and if it is 75% attenuation I crash cool the beer to 50 degrees gradually and then transfer to a brite tank. From talking with brewers with similar brew houses they say it takes about two weeks for complete fermentation. My business partner seems to be concerned with auto lysis with the yeast but I have never experienced this flavor in our beers. Are auto lysis and oxidized issues related?
Please help!
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So what I need to know is what are desired numbers for DO in finished beer. He was told 15 ppm is what you want, then beer can be transferred to brite tanks. I feel like our oxidation issues are from a combination of things like our grain being stored in a machine shed that is not temp controlled. Also, in the summer I have a hard time cooling beer with our chill plates due to warm ground water temps.
So if anyone could enlighten me on some things to do to minimize oxidation it would be greatly appreciated. We brew on a 2.5bbl Psycho Brew system. We brew double batches into 5bbl fermenters. I use Fermentis dry yeast and oxygenate our wort with a GW Kent in line oxygen stone.
My business partner has also, to my dismay been purging yeast out of the bottom of our fermenters. I brewed a robust Porter with an OG of 16 Plato. He started dumping yeast after a week with a gravity of 6 Plato. He then got a DO reading of 8 and transferred it to a brite tank. The beer tastes like shit!
I typically wait 10 to 12 days and check a gravity reading and if it is 75% attenuation I crash cool the beer to 50 degrees gradually and then transfer to a brite tank. From talking with brewers with similar brew houses they say it takes about two weeks for complete fermentation. My business partner seems to be concerned with auto lysis with the yeast but I have never experienced this flavor in our beers. Are auto lysis and oxidized issues related?
Please help!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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