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  • Glycol loop

    I set up my glycol run and am having issues with the flow. mainly the drop to each tank. The glycol is just running around the loop and not cooling the tanks. There is also one area where the glycol is not even going to. That area I was hestitant to even plumb but the manufacturer told me too.
    I guess its the path of least resistance problem, but their suggested drawup isnt working. Attached is a pic with the issues written in.
    My thought were to add a ball valve before the return so I can partially close it to get all the lines filled properly and get a good flow to all parts of the run. Thoughts?
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Based on your photo, you have 3 horizontal runs. What is killing you are all those tees between the top line and the middle line.

    It looks like the outlet is the bottom line, the intlet is the middle line, and the reverse return is the top line. It looks like you have a tee connecting the reverse return and inlet manifold (but it is hard to see it is way in the right in the photo).

    It looks like you have a thousand more tees and fittings than needed. This is a pretty simple setup and it has been needlessly complicated.

    Jeff

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Johnson Thermal Systems
    sales@johnsonthermal.com
    Johnsonthermal.com
    208.453.1000

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    • #3
      Im not sure where you got your designs from, but it looks way over complicated like the other poster said.
      I dont see any restriction valve in the return line either which is usually necessary

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      • #4
        Yea i'm not sure why the top line was in the diagram. It was months ago when we ordered everything and had this drawn up. When building it last week we almost nixed bc it seemed so uneccesary. We'll take that out today.
        We will also put a ball valve on the return side. To restrict the flow a little on the return?

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        • #5
          Looks like the supply goes straight thru to a return line, no valve or restriction. There is much more resistance headed into your tanks and across the solenoids. The connection of supply to return should be there only to keep your pump from deadheading and should go through a very small orifice or mostly closed valve. Right now, you are literally bypassing your tanks.

          Its also needlessly complicated. There are lots of threads on here about this, do a search and you will find a good sketch of what it should look like.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by jebzter View Post
            Looks like the supply goes straight thru to a return line, no valve or restriction. There is much more resistance headed into your tanks and across the solenoids. The connection of supply to return should be there only to keep your pump from deadheading and should go through a very small orifice or mostly closed valve. Right now, you are literally bypassing your tanks.

            Its also needlessly complicated. There are lots of threads on here about this, do a search and you will find a good sketch of what it should look like.
            I cut out the top completely. It helped but didnt flow much at all thru the solenoid/drops. Then I put a ball valve right before the return, which forces the liquid to go thru the solenoids when open. But I am thinking to changing the location of that valve to between the supply and return connection (pic attached). Is that a better idea or keep it right before the return supply?
            Attached Files

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            • #7
              Originally posted by NicaHops View Post
              I cut out the top completely. It helped but didnt flow much at all thru the solenoid/drops. Then I put a ball valve right before the return, which forces the liquid to go thru the solenoids when open. But I am thinking to changing the location of that valve to between the supply and return connection (pic attached). Is that a better idea or keep it right before the return supply?
              Put a ball valve and a pressure gauge on that supply/return section that you mention. The pressure gauge should be on the supply side. Before the valve valve. Turn on your chiller with the ball valve open, let it start flowing then slowly close the valve, but not all the way as you could start popping lines off. As you start building pressure (8-15 psi) open up one fermenter and your pressure should drop but not all the way. Only maybe 1 psi per ferm. You should alway have pressure on your supply line.

              Adjust your ball valve to have good pressure when all three FV are in the open position. I’d do no less than 5 psi (I have mine set to a min of 8 with all FV open, and 14 with it closed. Make sure that number doesn’t spike to something rediculius as again you could pop lines off and damage equipment.

              Also make sure the gauge you get is free of air in its line as it’ll read off and fluctuate.


              The glycol will follow whatever is least resistant.
              Last edited by eulielee; 03-21-2018, 06:52 AM.
              Thanks,
              Eulie

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              • #8
                Your picture latest picture looks like a much better design. To test if the flow improves (before you make the more permanent changes as suggested by others), you can place a small clamp to partially restrict the silicone hose where you have the ball valve ?? in your pic. This will add some back pressure on your supply side and should help your problem.

                Bob

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                • #9
                  thanks everyone, we put the ball valve in where the "ball valve ??" is and nixed the top row like in the pic and things seem to be flowing nicely. we have all 3 tanks currently fermenting and things are going good so far.
                  One thing we might change is the solenoid positioning. the manufacturer said they work better horizontal vs vertical.

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