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Thread: Suggestions for cleaning fermenter after Brut IPA?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Columbia, MO

    Suggestions for cleaning fermenter after Brut IPA?

    Hey there,

    I'm looking to make a Brut IPA and hoping to add BSG's Amylo 300 to the fermenter instead of the mash tun or kettle to achieve closer to 100% attenuation. I want to make sure that it's completely dead/denatured/whatever you want to call it after fermentation, so it doesn't carry over to future batches in the fermenter. I know that it us active up to 149*F and that sterilizing the fermentor would achieve this but I don't have the ability to sterilize my tanks at this time. Does anybody have any insight into some cleaning procedures with caustic, acid, PAA, etc that will take care of the enzyme and inhibit it from carrying on to other batches. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Chesterfield, UK
    Large brewery experience simply says if you are cleaning effectively for normal hygiene reasons, then this is OK for denaturing AMG. Preferably hot clean, but not essential, but what is essential is to make sure that every pump, valve, hose, piece of pipe that comes into contact with the AMG treated beer is cleaned thoroughly immediately it has been used for processing this treated beer. This includes all packaging equipment, and kegs / casks used to put the beer into.

    And if you are re-using your yeast, you can only re-use it to make another batch of AMG treated beer, otherwise it must go down the drain, for animal feed or whatever you do with waste yeast

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Cincinnati, OH
    Do you not clean with 149*F+ Water? I would just pump HLT liquor at ~175*F to the tank and run a regular caustic cycle then acid cycle.

    BTW - I don’t know many brewers who actually sterilize their tanks. That’s more of a lab side thing. We just sanitize chemically, or I think you’re meaning pasteurize (heat).

    If you can’t get that hot, the next best thing is usually a very large pH swing. I like to go 12+ to 2- myself. A long soak in PAA (even at low concentrations) is very effective for most things as well. The enzymes come from aspergillis, so I would try to address it with something that is effective on molds.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Allentown, PA, USA

    Standard Chemistry

    You are good with however you would clean on the acid or alkaline side. Enzymes may be tough on the temp side, but chemical interactions will destroy them because of the hydrogen bonding that maintains their shape. Run it through your typical alkaline wash and follow up it up with acid and you will be good. Above all, if you are using PAA, no protein (which is what an enzyme is) will survive.

    I understand your concern, but 15 minutes on both sides of the pH range will end the enzymatic activity for good.

    Rick Theiner
    LOGIC, Inc.
    LOGIC, Inc.
    Environmentally Friendly Cleaners and Sanitizers

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    San Francisco, CA
    Think you'd also do well to keep in mind that enzymes can't make more of themselves; destroying and/or rinsing out 99.9% of the enzyme will be good enough. It's not like working with brett/bacteria, where a tiny pocket in a loose triclamp or whatever will harbor enough live cells to colonize and infect the whole next tankful of beer. You only need to remove enough of them that the remaining few will work too slowly to affect the next beer before they naturally deactivate (their denaturing time is long at fermentation temp/pH/etc, but they're not immortal!).

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