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Thread: Motorized ball value for glycol

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Calmar Iowa U.S.A.
    Posts
    35

    Motorized ball value for glycol

    Hi all.
    We are looking into up grading parts of our glycol loop by switching out our magnetic syliniods with 3/4" motorized ball valves. Just wondering what brand you all are using. I have seen the ones by US Solid https://ussolid.com/motorized-ball-v...to-return.html but the rating for the flow medium only goes down to 32F. We circulate at 27F. Any one using these? What other manufacturers should I be looking at?
    Thanks for the help!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Richmond, VA.
    Posts
    425
    i used the bad boys on the stea inlets of my mash/lauter tun and kettle. then would be perfect for glycol.

    https://www.granzow.com/valves/ball/S2L05B1/

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Moab, Utah
    Posts
    489

    Motorized Ball valves are "Overkill"

    Motorized ball valves are wholly unnecessary on Glycol loops, expensive, and more prone to failure by hundreds of times.
    The correct type of solenoids, being setup correctly will last almost forever and rarely if ever fail.
    Warren Turner
    Industrial Engineering Technician
    HVACR-Electrical Systems Specialist
    Moab Brewery
    " No Cell Phone Zone."

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Calmar Iowa U.S.A.
    Posts
    35
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Pivo View Post
    Hi all.
    We are looking into up grading parts of our glycol loop by switching out our magnetic syliniods with 3/4" motorized ball valves. Just wondering what brand you all are using. I have seen the ones by US Solid https://ussolid.com/motorized-ball-v...to-return.html but the rating for the flow medium only goes down to 32F. We circulate at 27F. Any one using these? What other manufacturers should I be looking at?
    Thanks for the help!
    Anyone else?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Palau
    Posts
    1,948

    And the failure position would be????

    You want a solution that is fail-closed. Most motorized valves are fail-as-is. Meaning that failure may have you freezing your tank contents. I've used motorized ball valves and found them to be a pain in the butt. Motor open and motor close. Means that you need more controls, wire, and of course the failure mode is incorrect. I've switched to using pneumatic angle seat valves. Fairly inexpensive and fairly bullet proof. Obviously you need a reliable air supply, but you should have that anyway. I've also had some that close a bit too quickly. That can be fixed easily by adding a pneumatic speed control valve--type of control valve that slows the entry of air to a gadget. Pneumatic angle valves make the most sense to me especially for anything above 3/4".
    Phillip Kelm--Palau Brewing Company Manager--

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Minocqua WI
    Posts
    780
    https://www.gfps.com/country_US/en_U...tors/ea25.html

    Fail protected with battery back-up + manual control if needed - just pop the handle on, Slow open close - no pipe knocking, adapters available to retrofit into any system, More robust and longer lasting and less prone to blockage than solenoids. And the cost just about the same as a good solenoid. They come in pneumatic also if that's what you want, and those will fail closed.

    https://www.gfps.com/country_US/en_U...lves/t231.html

    No matter what you pick, have manual valves to isolate, and bypass, during maintenance. NO mechanical device is fool-proof.
    Brewmaster, Minocqua Brewing Company
    tbriggs@minocquabrewingcompany.com
    "Your results may vary"

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Enterprise, Oregon
    Posts
    1,801
    Good points about failure mode, Phillip.

    Electric solenoid valves usually fail in the open position. This failure is almost always due to tiny bits of debris in the pilot side of the valve. Flushing a new system and using properly located strainers will prevent this.

    We have a mix of magnetic solenoids and pneumatic angle-valves. Both are very reliable in a perfectly clean system, and throttling the closing speed of the pneumatic valves is, a you point out, easy. We use mufflers to throttle ours.

    The need for electro-pneumatic valves between the temp controllers and the pneumatic glycol valves adds cost, complexity and potential failure points to a pneumatic system.
    Timm Turrentine

    Brewerywright,
    Terminal Gravity Brewing,
    Enterprise. Oregon.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Palau
    Posts
    1,948

    Different failures....

    IMO, all temperature control valves used for glycol should be energize-to-open. The default position for the valve is closed. Common failure mode of a solenoid would be burnt coils, which will keep your valve closed. Blown fuse--valve closed. Shorted wire--valve closed. Loss of electricity--valve closed. Blown controller--valve closed. But it's not the only failure position of a solenoid. Most solenoid valves used in glycol control are "pilot operated". These use a tiny orifice as a pilot to actuate the main diaphragm via hydraulic forces in the system. It allows a fairly small electrical solenoid to control a larger valve. Debris in the glycol is usually the first thing to fail a solenoid valve. Especially with rushed, unflushed, uncleaned systems without a strainer. This debris clogs the tiny hole and will stick a valve in the open position and overcool your tank. As soon as you either install a strainer (like you should have from the start) or repeatedly remove debris from stuck valves, the problem will go away. With any luck. BTW, you should clean your strainer very soon after startup, and then at least semi-annually afterwards. Most often they will remain clean. Then you can smile and rest easy. Maintenance shouldn't be about finding and fixing problems. It should be about avoiding them in the first place. DIRTFT. Do It Right The First Time.
    Phillip Kelm--Palau Brewing Company Manager--

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Worcester, MA USA
    Posts
    40
    https://www.energycontrol.com/Belimo...SABEgKAQvD_BwE

    We use Belimo electric actuated spring return ball valves

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