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Motorized ball value for glycol

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  • Motorized ball value for glycol

    Hi all.
    We are looking into up grading parts of our glycol loop by switching out our magnetic syliniods with 3/4" motorized ball valves. Just wondering what brand you all are using. I have seen the ones by US Solid https://ussolid.com/motorized-ball-v...to-return.html but the rating for the flow medium only goes down to 32F. We circulate at 27F. Any one using these? What other manufacturers should I be looking at?
    Thanks for the help!

  • #2
    i used the bad boys on the stea inlets of my mash/lauter tun and kettle. then would be perfect for glycol.

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    • #3
      Motorized Ball valves are "Overkill"

      Motorized ball valves are wholly unnecessary on Glycol loops, expensive, and more prone to failure by hundreds of times.
      The correct type of solenoids, being setup correctly will last almost forever and rarely if ever fail.
      Warren Turner
      Industrial Engineering Technician
      HVACR-Electrical Systems Specialist
      Moab Brewery
      The Thought Police are Attempting to Suppress Free Speech and Sugar coat everything. This is both Cowardice and Treason given to their own kind.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Richard Pivo View Post
        Hi all.
        We are looking into up grading parts of our glycol loop by switching out our magnetic syliniods with 3/4" motorized ball valves. Just wondering what brand you all are using. I have seen the ones by US Solid https://ussolid.com/motorized-ball-v...to-return.html but the rating for the flow medium only goes down to 32F. We circulate at 27F. Any one using these? What other manufacturers should I be looking at?
        Thanks for the help!
        Anyone else?

        Comment


        • #5
          And the failure position would be????

          You want a solution that is fail-closed. Most motorized valves are fail-as-is. Meaning that failure may have you freezing your tank contents. I've used motorized ball valves and found them to be a pain in the butt. Motor open and motor close. Means that you need more controls, wire, and of course the failure mode is incorrect. I've switched to using pneumatic angle seat valves. Fairly inexpensive and fairly bullet proof. Obviously you need a reliable air supply, but you should have that anyway. I've also had some that close a bit too quickly. That can be fixed easily by adding a pneumatic speed control valve--type of control valve that slows the entry of air to a gadget. Pneumatic angle valves make the most sense to me especially for anything above 3/4".
          Phillip Kelm--Palau Brewing Company Manager--

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          • #6


            Fail protected with battery back-up + manual control if needed - just pop the handle on, Slow open close - no pipe knocking, adapters available to retrofit into any system, More robust and longer lasting and less prone to blockage than solenoids. And the cost just about the same as a good solenoid. They come in pneumatic also if that's what you want, and those will fail closed.



            No matter what you pick, have manual valves to isolate, and bypass, during maintenance. NO mechanical device is fool-proof.
            Brewmaster, Minocqua Brewing Company
            tbriggs@minocquabrewingcompany.com
            "Your results may vary"

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            • #7
              Good points about failure mode, Phillip.

              Electric solenoid valves usually fail in the open position. This failure is almost always due to tiny bits of debris in the pilot side of the valve. Flushing a new system and using properly located strainers will prevent this.

              We have a mix of magnetic solenoids and pneumatic angle-valves. Both are very reliable in a perfectly clean system, and throttling the closing speed of the pneumatic valves is, a you point out, easy. We use mufflers to throttle ours.

              The need for electro-pneumatic valves between the temp controllers and the pneumatic glycol valves adds cost, complexity and potential failure points to a pneumatic system.
              Timm Turrentine

              Brewerywright,
              Terminal Gravity Brewing,
              Enterprise. Oregon.

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              • #8
                Different failures....

                IMO, all temperature control valves used for glycol should be energize-to-open. The default position for the valve is closed. Common failure mode of a solenoid would be burnt coils, which will keep your valve closed. Blown fuse--valve closed. Shorted wire--valve closed. Loss of electricity--valve closed. Blown controller--valve closed. But it's not the only failure position of a solenoid. Most solenoid valves used in glycol control are "pilot operated". These use a tiny orifice as a pilot to actuate the main diaphragm via hydraulic forces in the system. It allows a fairly small electrical solenoid to control a larger valve. Debris in the glycol is usually the first thing to fail a solenoid valve. Especially with rushed, unflushed, uncleaned systems without a strainer. This debris clogs the tiny hole and will stick a valve in the open position and overcool your tank. As soon as you either install a strainer (like you should have from the start) or repeatedly remove debris from stuck valves, the problem will go away. With any luck. BTW, you should clean your strainer very soon after startup, and then at least semi-annually afterwards. Most often they will remain clean. Then you can smile and rest easy. Maintenance shouldn't be about finding and fixing problems. It should be about avoiding them in the first place. DIRTFT. Do It Right The First Time.
                Phillip Kelm--Palau Brewing Company Manager--

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                • #9


                  We use Belimo electric actuated spring return ball valves

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