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brewing a Brut IPA with Amlyo 300...dosage?

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  • brewing a Brut IPA with Amlyo 300...dosage?

    I’m getting ready to brew a Brut IPA using Amlyo 300 and am a little confused about the dosage. For those of you adding on the cold side to the FV pre-ferment, what is your effective dosage?

    BSG’s website,
    Recommended dosage rate in mash is 250 -1200ml/tonne.
    Recommended dosage rate in fermentation/maturation is 1-4g/hl.


    If I am figuring this out correctly, then for a 7bbl batch (8.21hl), at the high end of 4g/hl, then I would dose with 32.84ml (which is significantly less than if using in the mash which I figured out to be if my mash was 455 lbs grain and ~1432lbs water = 1887 lbs which is .86 tonne = .86*1200 = 1032ml). I digress. I then I found this site that shows,
    Dosing Rate:
    2-7 g⁄hL (~1-2 ml per 5 gallons)
    ÿ2-7 mL⁄hL*
    =20-70 ppm
    *Assuming the density of water for liquid enzyme


    That would be 7bbl=217 gallons/5*2ml (per 5 gallons) = 86.8 ml. That’s significantly more then the 32.84 derived above.

    Any feedback for what effective rates others are using pre-ferment would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!
    Dave Cowie
    Three Forks Bakery & Brewing Company
    Nevada City, CA

  • #2
    On a 7 bbl batch I've been using 50 mL in the FV with good results. I don't have an easy way to measure out less than 50 mL so that's what I settled on. Based on results, I'm guessing the 32.whatever you calculated would do the job as well.
    Manuel

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    • #3
      Originally posted by mmussen View Post
      On a 7 bbl batch I've been using 50 mL in the FV with good results. I don't have an easy way to measure out less than 50 mL so that's what I settled on. Based on results, I'm guessing the 32.whatever you calculated would do the job as well.
      Great, thanks. How do you add it? In the FV before transfer?
      Dave Cowie
      Three Forks Bakery & Brewing Company
      Nevada City, CA

      Comment


      • #4
        My brewery recently made a Brut IPA. We used Amylo 300 in the mash and the fermenter, just to make sure it did it job (which is did, FG was under 0 P). We had a 1 kg jug, and put about half in the mash and half in the fermenter. Based on that, we used around 500 g in the fermenter with 69 bbl of wort. That comes out to around 7.25 g/bbl. Keep in mind that we did use it in the mash, but probably didn't need to. Make sure you use g/bbl or g/hL in your calculations, and don't substitute mL for grams. I'm pretty sure the Amylo 300 is denser than water.

        My guess as to why the two sources have a dosage rate discrepancy is that one is the product you'll be using, and another is sold on a homebrewing website. Go with the dosage of what you're actually using. Different vendors will use different concentrations. I'd also assume that the homebrew shop assume that homebrewers won't be able to measure fractions of a mL, so they dilute their product to make it easier to use. Or sell more than is needed.

        We threw it on top of our yeast pitched into the fermenter before the wort was added. Make sure you sanitize the outside of the jug, just like using a yeast starter. My guess is the dosage rate is so much lower in the fermenter than the mash because it will sit in there for a week or more, instead of an hour or less before it's denatured. Good luck!

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        • #5
          Originally posted by swright83 View Post
          My brewery recently made a Brut IPA. We used Amylo 300 in the mash and the fermenter, just to make sure it did it job (which is did, FG was under 0 P). We had a 1 kg jug, and put about half in the mash and half in the fermenter. Based on that, we used around 500 g in the fermenter with 69 bbl of wort. That comes out to around 7.25 g/bbl. Keep in mind that we did use it in the mash, but probably didn't need to. Make sure you use g/bbl or g/hL in your calculations, and don't substitute mL for grams. I'm pretty sure the Amylo 300 is denser than water.

          My guess as to why the two sources have a dosage rate discrepancy is that one is the product you'll be using, and another is sold on a homebrewing website. Go with the dosage of what you're actually using. Different vendors will use different concentrations. I'd also assume that the homebrew shop assume that homebrewers won't be able to measure fractions of a mL, so they dilute their product to make it easier to use. Or sell more than is needed.

          We threw it on top of our yeast pitched into the fermenter before the wort was added. Make sure you sanitize the outside of the jug, just like using a yeast starter. My guess is the dosage rate is so much lower in the fermenter than the mash because it will sit in there for a week or more, instead of an hour or less before it's denatured. Good luck!
          Great feedback. Good point about the g vs. ml and the density. I'll weigh it out and go with the g/hl per the manufacturer. Thanks!
          Dave Cowie
          Three Forks Bakery & Brewing Company
          Nevada City, CA

          Comment


          • #6
            Dave,

            Having brewed a few batches of this my procedure for adding enzyme has changed a bit over time.
            I started by adding enzyme during cast out, and it did work fine, although it seemed to add an extra day or two to fully dry out. Currently I'm adding enzyme after the first 48 hrs of fermentation. Last batch done that way got to 0p in 6 days.

            I've heard of a few breweries soft crashing, harvesting, and then adding enzyme when dry hopping so they can reuse yeast. I have not personally tried that method yet, but it seems to work, although I would assume it would add to total tank time.
            Manuel

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            • #7
              Do you have to refrigerate Amylo300?

              Thank you all for this thread. I'm going to be brewing my first Brut IPA next week, and reading this thread backs up my plans, so I'm feeling good. I just got my Amylo300 yesterday. This morning I got curious about the health warning labels and started reading more about the product, and the manufacturer's sheet says that it should be
              stored under 10 degrees Celsius. Between 1 and 10 is best, though it should never be allowed to freeze (something that came up with BSG since the product shipped to Michigan). My brewhouse is definitely over 10. Should I be refrigerating this stuff? No where aside from the technical data sheet I found online does it mention anything about needing to keep this stuff cool.

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