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Thread: Pall lenticular filter WSFZ operating manual?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    9

    Pall lenticular filter WSFZ operating manual?

    Hi, a year ago I purchased a used 16 inch 4 module lenticular filter from a USA cidery, that came without an operating manual. I did contact pall but they were unable to supply that document arguing that since I am located in Mexico, is the mexican sales representative the one that should do that. Well mexican guys never sent that doc. I wonder if any of you that own this type of filter is willing to share with me that document? Thanks for your time!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Antigua, Guatemala
    Posts
    36

    PM me

    I have 2 different manuals that my Pall rep just sent me last week when we bought a Supradisc, one is specific to brewery use the other more general. They are too big to upload here but PM me your email and I'll send them over to you. Where are you in MX? Saludos.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    368
    I bought this filter new and it never come with Manual. I got cleaning instructions from sales person later.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    136
    I will see if i can find the original files i had for our 12" x4 filter, but there are a few important things :

    Firstly they say don't use caustic or peracetic acid, and to store the filter with metabisulfate. If you talk to them more, they say low concentration peracetic is ok. i have never used caustic.

    When we clean it after use we backflush with cold water until the outflow becomes clearer. Then rest it for 5-10 minutes and backflush it again. you will find it gets cloudy again for a while and then clears up again. Repeat until it is clear. Cleaning flowrate should be at least 2x filtration flowrate. We do a final backflush with hot water 70-80C and pack it with hot water overnight to pasteurize. To avoid temperature shock, we fill it with cold water and as the hot water comes in, it blends with the hot and the temp gradually rises to sterilize the filter. When you put it away, close up the bottom valves, but leave the top valve open with a small hose going to a bucket of sani as an airlock. When the filter cools, the water inside will contract and draw some sani in. If you do not leave the top open, it will create a vaccuum inside the housing and will suck in the weakest link, usually the o- rings on the bell. If you are going to leave the filter for a few days, you can then drain the filter and fill with dilute peracetic acid. Replace the solution weekly if storing for a long time.

    When you go to use the filter, rinse with cold water and recirc with peracetic. When ready to filter you can chase with cold water and then push it out with CO2 on top of the bell. You can "wring it out" by pressurizing it to ~30psi, then opening the drain fully, and this will tend to push most of the water out of the filter. Repeat a few times. Counter pressurize the filter to avoid beer foaming up as it fills.


    Pay attention to flow rate and differential pressure. There is a spec (which i don't have in front of me), but if you keep it below the recommended HL/ hr per square meter then it will give you better cartridge life and filtration quality. With a quad 16" you should be able to do 30-40 Hl/Hr but check it out, it may depend on the micron rating of the cartridges you use.

    Also: Monitor the differential pressure across the filter if it rises beyond say 5psi, it would be smart to backflush the filter. You can push the remaining beer out of the bowl with CO2, backflush with cold water, purge and restart. As diff'l pressure rises, flowrate will drop and you will push the muck far into the pads, and they will regenerate less well as you start to foul the cartridge up to the point where it needs to be replaced.

    If you do it right you can get good life out of your cartridges and good quality beer!

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