Glycol Solenoid Valves

[KettleHop]

We are in the process of connecting our glycol chiller (3 hp) to our cellar tanks. Looking at solenoid valves for the control of glycol into the fermenters and bright tanks, I see that there is a wide disparity in prices ($119-440). Is there a practical justification for buying the more expensive solenoid valves? Can anyone recommend the proper valves for our purposes? Thanks!

[ChrisKennedy]

GWKent offers solenoid valves of varying power and sizes for less than $100. We never had a problem with ours for the two years we used them. We only stopped using them because we went to ball valves on our new system.

[triple]

Solenoid Valves

We are in the process of connecting our glycol chiller (3 hp) to our cellar tanks. Looking at solenoid valves for the control of glycol into the fermenters and bright tanks, I see that there is a wide disparity in prices ($119-440). Is there a practical justification for buying the more expensive solenoid valves? Can anyone recommend the proper valves for our purposes? Thanks!

We have used ASCO Brass valves for Glycol with no issues at all. Bras is fine for Glycol supplies. It is more about the cycle limit than anything else when it comes to cost. How many cycles with the valve make before it craps out?

[dast]

Hi,
I recommend using a actuated ball valve instead of solenoid valve because you get following advantages:

Full bore through the valve = no pressure drop, no problem with dirt/debris getting stuck in servo channels and make the valve non functioning

Slow opening and closing (5-10 seconds) = no water hammers

manual override = you can manouver the valve without power if needed or overide the cotroller if needed.

no need of two extra manual valves. normally you put one manual valve before the solenoid and one after the solenoid so you can service the solenoid. This not needed with the actuated ball valve. If something goes wrong with the actuator you just switch it out.

You can also have a pneumatic actuated valve if wanted, now you dob't have to spend money on running conduit out to the valves

You can also install a manual valve and later on install an actuator on it.

Valve insulation available

Price from $160

Best Regards,

Dan Stromberg

Georg Ficher LLC
2882 Dow Avenue
Tustin, CA 92780

951-642-2339
dan.stromberg@georgfischer.com

[OneMoreBrewer]

I worked at an industrial scientific research facility and the above post sounds absolutely correct. Must be an actual field tech and not one of those pesky engineers. They are always overdoing it, and those crazy cowboys are always making do with less. The people who NEED it to work, do as above. We like the pneumatics!

[triple]

Pneumatics

Well, if you like pneumatics, you will like the cost. You will also still need pneumatic solenoids to turn these valves on an off at the panel so, there will be some electrical work done there as well.
Depending on the voltage you operate at and you go all electric, you can run a multi-conductor cable to each valve so there is no need to run 2 air lines to each valve.
Obviously both designs will work.

[OneMoreBrewer]

Well, if you like pneumatics, you will like the cost. You will also still need pneumatic solenoids to turn these valves on an off at the panel so, there will be some electrical work done there as well.
Depending on the voltage you operate at and you go all electric, you can run a multi-conductor cable to each valve so there is no need to run 2 air lines to each valve.
Obviously both designs will work.

I agree with you also. Just from prior experiences not related to brewing, it was my personal preference to keep any electrical as far away from wet operating areas as possible (lots of outside stuff). Probably not a big deal if you take extra precautions. Solenoid to control air, yes. No need for two airlines to each pneumatic valve, that I am aware of. Just a distribution block with one line to each valve. I also found pneumatics easy to rebuild if necessary, don't know about rebuilding the electrics, but I'd imagine they shouldn't be much different. I'd say pick what fits your current set up best, and requires the least modification. I've had good success with both.

[dast]

Hi,
Pneumatic valves are available as:
Fail safe Close (normally closed) = air needed to open the valve and a spring will close the valve (only one hose needed)
Fail safe Open (normally open) = air needed to close the valve and a spring will open the valve (only one hose needed)
Double acting = aire needed to open the valve and air needed to close the valve (here you need two air hoses)

You can also get them with or without manual overide

When you have several pneumatic actuated valves you normally mount a manifold with all the control solenoid valves (that will control all the pneumatic valves) near the control panel for your process.

Best Regards,

Dan

[schmogger]

ASCO 8210G095 120/60AC 2-Way Brass 3/4 In Solenoid Valve, Normally Closed, General Service. These are bomber valves. I have never had any issues with these and I have used them for more then 12 years.

http://valvesandinstruments.com/sole...l-service.html

[Ted Briggs]

Nobody's said it yet so make sure you get 0 differential solenoids. Grainger is a good place. But if it was my brewery I would go for the actuated ball valves.