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Does anyone brew on Stout tanks electric brewing system?

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  • Does anyone brew on Stout tanks electric brewing system?

    Has anyone bought or brewed on a Stout tank electric brewing system? We were thinking about pulling the plug and buy the 7bbl electric system and wanted some feedback from anyone who used it.

    Some questions I would have is how fast does the water heat up in the HLT? it has 4 15000 Watt heating elements (total wattage 60,000 watts).

    How fast does it bring 270gal to a boil? is has the same heating elements as above ^^

    The HLT has 290gal capacity is that enough?

    Any other pro and cons would be great help!

    Feel free to comment if you brew on a electric system as well.
    Last edited by jcmccoy; 01-07-2014, 03:25 PM.

  • #2
    My setup isn't from stout, but uses the same elements that are sourced from Brewmation and entirely manually controlled. I can bring 260 gallons from 60* to 150* in about an hour, and 150* to boil in ~50 minutes. This is with only three 15k watt elements. Once the boil starts I shut one element down and run on only two.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by jcmccoy View Post
      Has anyone bought or brewed on a Stout tank electric brewing system? We were thinking about pulling the plug and buy the 7bbl electric system and wanted some feedback from anyone who used it.

      Some questions I would have is how fast does the water heat up in the HLT? it has 4 15000 Watt heating elements (total wattage 60,000 watts).

      How fast does it bring 270gal to a boil? is has the same heating elements as above ^^

      The HLT has 190gal capacity is that enough?

      Any other pro and cons would be great help!

      Feel free to comment if you brew on a electric system as well.
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      • #4
        We are also considering a brewery package from stout tanks in Portland.

        Originally posted by jcmccoy View Post
        Has anyone bought or brewed on a Stout tank electric brewing system? We were thinking about pulling the plug and buy the 7bbl electric system and wanted some feedback from anyone who used it.

        Some questions I would have is how fast does the water heat up in the HLT? it has 4 15000 Watt heating elements (total wattage 60,000 watts).

        How fast does it bring 270gal to a boil? is has the same heating elements as above ^^

        The HLT has 190gal capacity is that enough?

        Any other pro and cons would be great help!

        Feel free to comment if you brew on a electric system as well.
        We are considering a 3 BBL SYSTEM also and prefer to go electric as well. Please share any info that you gain. You will have me in your debt. We are located in Vaughn, Wa. Thank you.

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        • #5
          Hi guys. We are about to get the 3BBL version. Any feedback and pointers following from running your systems will be greatly appreciated.



          Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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          • #6
            I have a 3bbl stout/Brewmation system. I have brewed 4 batches so far.



            Tanks and fittings are top notch. Only knock is the ungrinded welds on the outside of the tanks. Sanitary welds like the inside would have been best, but I will say the exposed welds are expertly done and look almost "laced".

            I have a hybrid system with "basic package" pumps and elements, but the UL listed touch screen operated panel. I run 208v 3-phase, 200 amps with 3@ 5500 w elements per tank and a 7th for the RIMS that I don't have set up yet. There are only 2 pumps in this package. One pump is a nice March with the welded in TC fittings. Unfortunately the output is a 3/4" tc instead of 1-1.5" like nearly everything else. The water pump is threaded fittings and I'm not sure the brand pump, but it rocks the CIP ball no problem.

            My system vents with a single 6" b-vent and a 260 cfm inline fan. This is a big reason to go electric over gas. The hood system required for a gas fired system can be real costy, and can get over 50k$ pretty quick depending on the building and local codes. I paid a contractor $1200 to goabout 20 ft horizontally and up through a 2nd floor and then a roof. I bought the stainless vent Tee from stout and that is a great investment and looks awesome. Any condensate that doesn't vent out just drains out the bottom instead of back to the kettle.

            From a function standpoint, I heat strike water in about an hour and boil in about the same. There is plenty to do while you wIt, so an hour +/- is nbd.The software and touchscreen work great. With the 2 pump system it means you are moving hoses all the time and constantly dump whatever is in the hoses on the floor. Brewing with this system is very messy.

            Mostly service has been great. I had one issue that wasn't handled to my satisfaction, but otherwise the service from Brewmation has been great.

            I was going to wait until I ran it a few more time before I reviewed it, but I know how it is needing the info. Hope this helps!!

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            • #7
              Any advice for CIP procedure for this setup. I have mine on order and shouldn't be operational until June ish looking for any advice in regards to this system.

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              • #8
                For the BK, I rinse with a hose manually spraying off the heavy soils on the tank walls, inside the siteglass and up inside the steam stack then run the cip ball with 7.5 gal of 140-150 F tap water and 2x my typical 5 gal dose of pbw. The soils in the kettle are the hardest to clean in my brewery so I mix slightly stronger than for other items. After running the cip ball for 30 min, I disconnect the hose from the ball and place it over the top inlet of the siteglass for a quick blast through there and then dump the pbw and pull all the valves and elements. The elements go into a tall plastic bucket filled with pbw and get scrubbed clean with a scrub brush. The ferrules on the tank are cleaned with a bottle brush. The valves and float and gaskets all get cleaned from the same bucket and then re installed. The siteglass is removed, wiped at the fittings and reinstalled. Then I hook a freshwater hose to the ball and rinse the whole thing at once using maybe 20ish gallons of hot tap water. I created an adapter to connect a hot water washdown hose to a tc clamp with a brass garden hose fitting from the local home improvement store and a barbed tc fitting. After rinse, some people will sanitize and some will wait to sanitize before use and some figure boiling is sanitizing enough. I use a steam stack on my bk so I don't remove that lid at all. The spray ball does a great job on the lid and the mouth of the stack. Only thing the sprayball just doesn't get are the elements.

                Mash Ton is about the same. I scoop out as much grain as I can. I wipe all the grain off the manway seal with a rag and reseal the manway. I fish the false bottom up with the butt of my mash paddle and hold it on its edge while I rinse inside the MT with my washdown hose rinsing to the drain. I then pull the out and put it over my 3-hole sink and clean it with a scrub brush as I rotate it over the sink. I then finish rinsing the inside of the mt, reinstall the false bottom, and then run the sprayball with about 7.5 gal of hot tap water pbw and run for 30 min. I remove the RIMMS and the valves and manually clean and rinse, then reassemble and rinse and sanitize as above.

                I only clean my hlt once a month or so. That is just a little hard water deposits and not much else.

                Brite tank is about the same as well. I use 5 gal in that tank. Rinse, PBW, disassemble and clean all valves, sight glass is hose so is connected to the pump briefly. Brush all the ferrules and the valves, gently wipe the co2 stone, and reassemble before rinse. This one I sanitize right away and then leave sealed until ready to fill.

                Plate chiller if you have one. Right after knockout, I take the water hose off the water inlet and put onto the wort outlet. I switch to hot water and run through the chiller backwards through the pump and into the BK. I then usually leave that sit overnight with water inside the chiller and do all the above cleaning the next day. To clean the chiller I first connect all my hoses from knocking out so it can all be cleasned at once. I do another hot water rinse to heat the chiller up and then I hook my small submersible pump that i use for keg cleaning to the wort outlet and run pbw through for about 30 min. You will be surprised how nasty the pbw gets!!! Then rinse with the hose adapter and then using the submersible pump again I sanitize for about 2 or 3 minutes. I cap the wort in & out ferrules with the sanitizer inside the chiller to wait for next use. Then before use of the chiller, I get all hooked up but don't turn on the water to the chiller. I start up the wort pump into the chiller with the end of the knockout hose over a bucket and run until all the sanitizer is through and wort is coming out. I then drop about a foot of the hose that would normal go into my fermenter into th BK and run the pump until the chiller is showing 160+F. THEN I feel my chiller is sanitized and I turn on the cold water and start knocking out. Once you open up a plate chiller for the first time you will see why I do the boiling wort thing!!!

                Thats it hope this helps.

                Matt
                Last edited by mmmatt; 04-10-2015, 08:53 AM.

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                • #9
                  Excellent description thank you!

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                  • #10
                    7bbl electric

                    I have my HX next to kettle so after brewing I hook the HX between pump outlet and kettle spray ball. The static spray ball I think is terrible and should have been put elsewhere on the kettle as a rotary or 2 spray balls on either side of stack. Anyway, I typically do a caustic then sanitize in the same method as mentioned. I have recently started doing acid first for about 20 mins 2% solution then caustic. My chemical supplier recommended it and it cleans the elements pretty well without having to remove and scrub all the time. Cleaning the system is a pain in general.

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                    • #11
                      I have a 10 BBL Electric Stout system that I love. feel free to email me to set up a call. Ill give you my take on it.

                      steve@lanikaibrewing.com

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                      • #12
                        Getting ready to fire up our 7bbl electric, and have a couple process questions...

                        I assume everyone's MT manway is as low as ours? What do you all use for spent grain containers that will fit under that manway?

                        When transferring to fermenter, what is your procedure for sanitizing the line? I previously brewed on a system with no HLT, so we would pump the HL from the kettle to the fermenter before lauterng over, sanitizing the line and fermenter in the process.

                        Thanks for any help!

                        Nathan

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                        • #13
                          it is and a pain in the ass. I may eventually think to raise it some. I got a hoe assuming I would put a container below and dump into trash can. Instead I just shovel from the top with a small step ladder into 32 gal brute trash cans. The bin I got was 4445T57 from mcmaster carr, but didnt use.

                          I usually clean the fermenter the day before and loop a hose so its freshly cleaned for the brew day. I will run the first bit of wort through the hose and HX until its nice and hot then start cooling. Also gives it time to release some of the trub in the way. I run my water out from HX back to the top of the HLT tank to reuse water.

                          Any other questions let me know. I have the 7bbl electric.

                          Justin Low
                          Head Brewer
                          Doylestown Brewing

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                          • #14
                            What I'm currently doing on my stout system is Boiling water in my kettle, and after mashing in moving that water through my HX into the HLT. That way I have plenty of water for the sparge and second brew.
                            Depending on what equipment you have, brews etc... I've also pumped water out of my HLT (make sure its over 180) through the HX and all my hoses and back into the HLT. Run that for 15 min or so and you can be sure that there's nothing growing in your equipment.
                            Manuel

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Nakajack View Post
                              Getting ready to fire up our 7bbl electric, and have a couple process questions...

                              I assume everyone's MT manway is as low as ours? What do you all use for spent grain containers that will fit under that manway?

                              When transferring to fermenter, what is your procedure for sanitizing the line? I previously brewed on a system with no HLT, so we would pump the HL from the kettle to the fermenter before lauterng over, sanitizing the line and fermenter in the process.

                              Thanks for any help!

                              Nathan


                              We have the 10 BBL version and our manway is also low to the ground. We have old 55G plastic drums that we cut a "U" shape out of and slide it right under the manway slide. We use plastic shovels and elbow grease to knock the grains out.

                              We sanitize our lines with in-line CIP. We run a loop from our CIP (modified keg) through our pump, through the hoses our inline yeast, 02, and site glasses, through the HX and to the outlet with valves on the ends of all of it. After its sanitized, we clean and spray the outlets to connect to the racking arm and kettle to cast out through the HX.

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