We recently had our glycol system drained and had a few stubs put in for some future tanks. I suspect a pvc shard from drilling into our glycol lines found it's way into a solenoid for one of our fermenters and the result is a beer sitting at about 56% apparent attenuation at 29 degrees F. Has anyone experienced this and does anyone have any ideas for how to revive fermentation on this beer? I've never had much luck restarting fermentation on stuck beers. Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated. OG: 12.6 now sitting at 5.5. Lallemand BRY-97 at 68 (before tank crashed out)
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Theres a couple of ways. First, if its easy to do, you can disconnect the tank from the glycol system and run warm water through the jackets to bring it up. When I say warm, keep it at 100 or less 80 is best, youll cook the yeast if you have too much thermal shock. A pump recirculating helps too.
Second, you can sanitize your heat exchanger and run the beer through it with city water or 80F water to heat up the beer. Loop it back to the tank.
The last method, and slowest, put a space heater right in front of the manway and any other exposed surfaces of the inner liner. Put a small pump on to keep things moving around in the tank, in a few days youll be going again.
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Hello Anthony,
Your apparent attenuation looks like 92% and the real 75%, so your beer seems to be fully attenuated, you dont need to raise your temp unless for a diacatil rest if thats whats worries you. If the beer its ok i wouldnt touch it, it has happened to me in the past that the solenoid doesnt fully close and the beer ended at 35F but with great results too. So my advice is that if its not broken do not try to fix it.
CheersJose Argudo
Head Brewer
3Monos Craft Beer
Malaga, Spain
www.3monoscaftbeer.com
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Originally posted by Jose A. View PostHello Anthony,
Your apparent attenuation looks like 92% and the real 75%, so your beer seems to be fully attenuated, you dont need to raise your temp unless for a diacatil rest if thats whats worries you. If the beer its ok i wouldnt touch it, it has happened to me in the past that the solenoid doesnt fully close and the beer ended at 35F but with great results too. So my advice is that if its not broken do not try to fix it.
Cheers
Jebzster has the right info. I would add to rouse your yeast a little with co2 during warming. The BRY-97 is a pretty aggressive yeast so it ought to kick back off for you.
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Originally posted by ASB Anthony View PostWe recently had our glycol system drained and had a few stubs put in for some future tanks. I suspect a pvc shard from drilling into our glycol lines found it's way into a solenoid for one of our fermenters and the result is a beer sitting at about 56% apparent attenuation at 29 degrees F. Has anyone experienced this and does anyone have any ideas for how to revive fermentation on this beer? I've never had much luck restarting fermentation on stuck beers. Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated. OG: 12.6 now sitting at 5.5. Lallemand BRY-97 at 68 (before tank crashed out)Warren Turner
Industrial Engineering Technician
HVACR-Electrical Systems Specialist
Moab Brewery
The Thought Police are Attempting to Suppress Free Speech and Sugar coat everything. This is both Cowardice and Treason given to their own kind.
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Originally posted by UnFermentable View PostYour math is wrong. The OP is correct. 12.6*P down to 5.5*P is 56% apparent attenuation. Not sure where you get 75% and 92% from. Jebzster has the right info. I would add to rouse your yeast a little with co2 during warming. The BRY-97 is a pretty aggressive yeast so it ought to kick back off for you.
Original Plato 12.60
Final Plato 5.50
Apparent Extract 7.10
Real Extract 6.78
ABW % 3.01
ABV % 3.76
Attenuation 56.35%
So yeh, its gonna be off. Id dump then pitch fresh yeast after warming. OR at least rouse the yeast back into suspension.
Make sure you have an inline strainer as stated. Also switch to motorized ball valves when possible.Brewmaster, Minocqua Brewing Company
tbriggs@minocquabrewingcompany.com
"Your results may vary"
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Originally posted by Starcat View PostWhere are your Wye Strainers?
The best way to avoid this issue is to close all manual valves that hopefully you have placed between the solenoids and the header pipe while doing the work. Then you cycle the header for a bit to strain the bits through the single wye strainer. Clean strainer (hopefully you valved it off for easy cleaning), open manual valves, and you are back in business. Crisis averted, minimal loss of glycol, and no big headaches.
I myself have advocated for the actuated ball valves in many application because they have a much better flow-through. There are some negatives, one of which is power. The actuated ball valves will stop in position with a power failure, where solenoids have a fail-safe state (normally closed, or normally open). If your power to an actuated ball valve fails, you can typically manually open/close the valve, but you have to be physically present.
Theoretically it could be possible to loose power to your tank controlling valves, while maintaining power to your circulation pump (not common). This could result in unwanted cooling of your tanks due to power failure, if you are equipped with actuated ball valves. If you have solenoids, they will achieve fail-safe state, stopping the flow of glycol (normally closed). One of the trade-offs. There are engineering solutions to using both, and ASCO's are just as reliable as Belimos when used in the proper configuration. I still tend to prefer the latter in most applications.
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