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From Patagonia
Terada Honke, a 17th-century sake brewery in Chiba Prefecture, Japan, makes sake for Patagonia Provisions as part of our natural wines program. Masaru Terada, the 24th-generation owner and brewmaster (toji), describes what it’s like to harmonize with unseen microbes—and why it defines his life.
I came to the brewery in 2003, through my wife, Satomi, who was born and raised at Terada Honke. My father-in-law, Keisuke, accepted me and showed me unconditional love. He would spend an hour or so with me after dinner, talking about fermentation, how to have a good heart, how to run a company and the importance of sensing the unseen world.
To become part of this family, I changed my surname to Terada. There is a tradition of sons-in-law working at Terada Honke, including my father-in-law and his predecessor. There are many reasons why the brewery has been able to continue, but one factor is the sons-in-law, who brought new ideas while cultivating a state of mind that allows for a dialogue with invisible microorganisms.
We make sake in the wintertime, after the rice harvest, and do it the traditional way—with our hands. One of our methods is the kimoto process, using a yeast starter made with microbes that live in the brewery. We believe this tradition goes back 300 years.
The kimoto process begins with our rice, full of light and soil energy, grown in local fields without any pesticides or synthetic fertilizers. It’s already been polished, so the grains are translucent. We rinse the rice thoroughly, swishing it to remove loose bran, and then soak the grains until they turn white. The water comes from our well at the foot of the Kozaki Shrine, surrounded by a forest that is hundreds of years old. The water seeps into the well through a network of ancient tree roots and fungi, carrying microorganisms and minerals vital to the brewing process.
Read the rest of this excellent article at Patagonia